Get It in Writing

Chef Huang was the instructor for these two lessons. He manages eight woks at a time in the restaurant kitchen where he works. He speaks only a few words of English, so Aga, the young entrepreneur who created the Chinese Cooking Workshops that are run in three Shanghai kitchen-studios, translates to English.

At these two Saturday sessions the participants were Joanna and Kerry from Australia, Christina and Helen from Singapore, Ian and Susan from the United States, and Florence from Paris.

Lesson Three, Sichuan Cuisine

1. Mapo tofu
   
2. Shredded Pork Cooked with Sweet and Sour Sauce
   
3. Gongpao Chicken
   

Lesson Four, Canton Cuisine

1. Mushrooms Cooked with Bok Choy
   
2. Beef Cooked with Oyster Sauce
   
3. Sweet and Sour Pork Cooked with Pineapple
   

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Guang Hua, the two-towered skyscraper is the most imposing building on the campus of Fudan University. In addition to a basement level parking garage there is an adjoining one-story bicycle garage that is one-half above and one-half below ground level.

On an after dinner stroll through campus one evening, the sounds of music coming from this bicycle garage whispered “Come in and check us out.” Inside was a group of about twenty women and men doing ballroom dancing to music coming from a small sound system.

Invitations to dance came soon since men were in a minority. So it was one, two, cha-cha-cha, one, two, three waltz, and rumba-rumba with partners who could not speak each others’ spoken language, but who knew the language of the rhythms.

Ni xihuan tiaowu?

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The last of six articles on a trip to Hainan Island.

There were two Hai Ge's in the group: shaved-head Hai Ge, who was wired for radio communication with the sag vehicle and alternately rode lead or sweep and photographer Hai Ge, who rode on a motorcycle while shooting still and moving pictures of the ride. His Photo Album contains 542 ride images.

Day Three. Qiongzhong to Dingan: 125 kilometers

Today's stage began a the southernmost point of the circuit, and took a northeasterly direction toward Dingan. It was fitting that this ride featured good roads and mostly flat and rolling terrain after Day Two's mountain stage. Overall it was an elevation drop from the central mountain range toward the coastal flats.

Passing through farming areas that featured rice paddies, vegetable plots, and arched trellises for growing squash was similar to riding in the Tidewater area of Virginia, especially along Route 5. The big chain ring was put to use today as we cruised along smooth, flat and rolling roads. For a few miles I rode in a pace line with five young riders.

In Dingan we were rewarded with the nicest hotel of the trip, featuring an enclosed shower, western toilet, and a bright spacious room. On the down side, this hotel, like that of the previous night, has no elevator, making the after ride climb up four floors with luggage and ride gear a chore.

Shower, dinner, another foot massage, and off to bed.
Ad Zhi

Day Four. Dingan to Haikou: 60 kilometers

After breakfast in the hotel the we assembled for group photos before starting off for what promised to be an easy 60 kilometer flat ride to Haikou. That notion was soon dispelled with 40 kilometers of the road from hell, a deteriorating rural macadam road whose base was the earth's topography and features spot tarring for repair. It was a bone-jarring stretch that elicited all the blue language one could muster.

By noon the group was assembled in the pavilion of a road restaurant on the outskirts of Haikou for the celebratory final meal. The main entree was goose, whose freshness was demonstrated when a young lad carried three geese into the kitchen by their wingtips as riders straggled in. The drinks flowed and toasts were made to mark the closing of this year's Ride Around Haikou Island.
Hai Ge Map The Younguns

For another account of Days Three and Four, see Marian's Journal.

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The fifth in a series of articles regarding a trip to Hainan Island.

Day 2: Danzhou to Qiongzhong, 125 kilometers

The satisfaction of completely the day one ride was not enough to inspire confidence for the next day’s mountain stage. Marian's account of last year's ride and comments from current riders identified today’s stage as the most difficult. Last year saw riders walking their bikes up the mountain or getting in the sag truck.

After a hotel breakfast of hard boiled eggs, rice porridge, and dumplings we were on the road again. Typically, roads in and out of cities here are wide, smooth, and lightly traveled. The road out of Danzhou continued to be smooth and scenic.
Hai Ge, Ron, Ad Zhi Hai Ge, the Official Photographer

Wong was one of the two members of the group who spoke English. His bi-lingual skills will be put to use in the Beijing Olympics, where he will be a cycling judge. As we rode along at the start of today’s ride he pointed out China’s Botanical University, in this heavily forested area. Soon we were making short climbs that passed by orderly rows of rubber trees, sometimes on terraced hillsides.
With Wong and His Daughter

The hills came regularly and were enough of a workout to make arrival at Baishi, the lunch stop, a welcome sight. Again, the restaurant was ready for us when we arrived with tables set in an adjoining alleyway. The ravenous riders sat down to a hearty lunch, which for this stranger was highlighted by watching two people eat chicken heads. Little animal carcass is wasted here.

Girded with food and an hour and one-half off the bike saddle, the group forged on toward the big climb. The road out of Baishi was smooth and rolling, which made for a good start with speedy rewards after each climb. By 3:00 p.m. we were at the base of Yingeling (Brother Eagle’s Ridge). The elevation of 1831 meters or 6007 feet does not make this a monster mountain, but high enough to make for a challenging bike climb for most riders. Fortunately, the average grade was not severe, much like grades on the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia, U.S.A.
Marian on Yingeling

The thing about going up a mountain on a bike is that it is relentless. T here is no let-up on the need to pedal, no coasting. This seemingly never-ending pedaling melts bravado quickly as one uses the granny gear with pleasure. The ascent of Yingeling was about ten kilometers (six miles) long. Fortunately, the grade allowed for stops and restarts along the way. The climb was grueling, but compared to climbing Wintergreen up to the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia this was a walk in the park.
On Yingeling

About half way up the mountain it began to mist then drizzle. While the cooling effect was welcome, the thought of descending on wet roads made the thoughts of the descent even scarier. At the summit emotions were in conflict. Exhilaration for completing the climb and dread of the ensuing descent of fifteen kilometers (nine miles).

Hands firmly on the brake levers and squeezing one of both periodically the joy ride began. Regular braking kept speeds between 30 and 40 kilometers per hour. Switchback turns were taken with caution. As relentless as pedaling is on an ascent, so is gravity on the descent. The heat generated in the climb turned to a chill on the descent in the rain. The awaiting sag truck and supporter at the bottom were a welcome sight. A much needed refueling was provided by the sweet rolls that Laobanniang handed out.
Safely Down the Mountain

With 25 kilometers remaining to get to Qiongzhong, the night’s stop, chilled and damp riders set out in hopes of generating some heat and getting to the end. The climbing was not over yet, as the road to Qiongzhong when up and down and up and down with no flats in between. At 6:30 p.m. as cars approached, Marian yelled out “Get off the bike and into the car.�? “No, no, I can finish.�? It was not an option, it was an order. There is little twilight around the equator, and darkness sets in quickly, thus with ten kilometers to the end remaining, the sweep ruled.

Shower, dinner, and sleep, yes sleep.

For another account of Day Two, see Marian's Journal.

Hai Ge's Tour Photo Album.

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The fourth in a series of articles regarding a trip to Hainan Island.

Tropical climes, palm trees, beaches, and cleaner air are reasons enough to leave Shanghai in February and head southward to Hainan Island, but it was the Haikou Bike Club’s annual Ride Around the Island that clinched the decision.

Thanks to Marian Rosenberg’s helpful information and encouragement (see previous article Meigui) and equipment from the Laobanniang’s Bike Shop (see previous article The Bike Shop), I was in place and ready to go at 8:00 a.m. on Tuesday, February 21, the fourth day of the 2007 Chinese New Year.

The tour, a circuit on the northern half of the island, covered 430 kilometers in four stages.

Day 1: Haikou to Danzhou, 136 kilometers
Riders, most on mountain bikes, set out from the bike shop and wound through Old Town’s narrow and congested streets then to avenues with wide bike lanes and eventually to the city outskirts heading south on the west side of the island. At the train station, the southern terminus for a ferried train from the mainland, additional riders met the group, which then swelled to thirty in number. Wide smooth roads with little traffic passed along beachfront, where racing sailboats bobbed just offshore.
At the Start

Good roads, balmy weather and a slight tailwind made for an auspicious start. That party ended after about twenty kilometers with a stretch of narrow, rough, heavily trafficked roads that lasted until Chengmai, the lunch stop, and the first clue to the detailed organization of this ride. Laobanniang, the bike shop owner and Ad Zhi, the bike shop manager, are the principal organizers, and their attention to detail was evident when we pulled up to a restaurant that was ready for us with tables set for eight to ten people with hot pots in the center ready to cook fresh meat and vegetables. Ready you must be when thirty hungry bike riders and support crew appear at mealtime.
Let Eat! Marian the Seamstress

Unlike most organized rides, this one was not an eat-and-run group. The lunch breaks lasted one and one-half hours leaving time for rest and even a catnap. A whistle was the signal to muster and prepare to ride on. Properly refueled, we took off for the second half of the day’s ride. Marian’s forewarning about the dirt road portion of this route kept surprised disappointment at bay. It was not until we reached it that she informed that it was about 22 kilometers in length. Ugh! The reddish sand had a solid base, but a soft top layer provided enough resistance to recommend low gears and a slow pace. Small rollers that would be good out-of-the-saddle workouts on hard-surfaced roads were more difficult on this road. It was a long time until we reached a small town and a hard road. Unfortunately, the dirt road continued after passing through the town.
Refueled and Ready to Ride Dirt Road

By late afternoon we were on hard roads again and a short ride to Danzhou, the first overnight stop. The organizational efficiency was again evidenced as Laobanniang and Ad Zhi greeted us at the hotel and doled out room keys. The ever-welcome after-ride shower awaited us a short elevator ride from the lobby.

After dinner, Marian, another rider, and I treated ourselves to a foot massage, a real misnomer since the only part of the body not treated was the chest , stomach, and lower back. It is a mystery why it has taken so long to discover this one-hour sensual repast, a real bargain at $3.00.
Where are the Veggies?

Body tingling, it was off to dreamland with the glow of having completed the 136 kilometer ride after a six-month hiatus from road biking.

For another account of the ride, see Marian's Jornal.

Hai Ge's Tour Photo Album.

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